Tulum!

Love/hate with Tulum. I first went 35 years ago, so I've seen it all. Tulum is a place where if you know where you're going, what to do, where to stay, etc, it can be great. If you go as a neophyte and book what you think is a palace on the beach, or a private Airbnb with a stunning jungle view in La Valeta, you may be disappointed. My day is an early breakfast, yoga or workout, quiet beach stay at Ziggys, sunset on my roof, occasional dinner with friends at Centro or La Valeta, and quite frankly, there is not much drama or action.

Tips:

Rent a car at the airport for $40 a day, including insurance. This is for an SUV, so I can drive through La Valeta. Never take a cab unless you plan to drink or party at night, and be prepared to pay. I use Mex, and I've never had an issue. However, they are all new and shiny at Tulum airport, you shouldn't have a problem with any rental.

Stay in La Valeta in a well-developed part where reviews state it's quiet. You won't avoid construction totally, but you can minimize it, and you'll be out most of the day anyway. I stay near the Holistika area, safer, quieter, not perfect, but not expensive either.

Alternate street food with a nice restaurant. La Valeta is reasonably priced, expensive for Mexico, but reasonable for someone like me from NYC if you know where to go. Canova is truly amazing, offering great value. La Boccanero makes incredible Neapolitan pizza. The taco truck off 7th makes incredible shrimp tacos for $2 or $3. Get a loaf of pumpernickel rye bread at Chedraui for $1.50, and a nice Chilean wine for $15, you get the point.

Carry a dummy wallet with $20 US and $10 in Pesos, give it to the cops if you get pulled over or stopped. Yes, I've gotten out of these things, but is it really worth a half hour of your time? They have all day to extract some coins from you.

Beaches: I like to go to Ziggys, it's quiet, the food is great. They ask for a $75 minimum, but my experience with all these clubs is to make a friend and tip them out. They can all wave it. At 3 clubs I frequent, I've never been asked to pay the minimum; they know me now.

If you go to Tulum and pay for the beach and have never been, you're in for a very rude awakening. There are better beach towns, but if you go for the combination of health, wellness, partying, beach, and sightseeing, Tulum can be special still.

This is my first visit to Tulum in 32 years. My has it changed! In fact, it's unrecognizable.

“It is so hot in September I must be out of my mind”

Not really. I was the recipient of great weather, no traffic, cheap rates and personal attention at Yoga classes. I wouldn't go any other time.

The Food

Highly recommend

Antojitos La Chiapaneca

Calle Acuario Nte. 3, Tulum Centro, Tobiano, 77760 Tulum Q.R., Mexico 984 112 3249 Visit Website Don’t let the name fool you. La Chiapaneca (the Chiapan) specializes in Yucatán-style tacos de al pastor and antojitos like panuchos (bean and meat-filled tortillas) and salbutes, a slightly puffed fried tortilla topped with chicken in recaudo rojo and vegetables. The pastor tacos rule but don't get there too late, they are always running out of meats!

Campanella Cremerie

Av. Tulum, Tulum Centro, Tulum Q.R., Mexico 984 871 2992 Visit Website With delicious gelato, high-quality coffee made with beans from Veracruz, and waffles, Tulum’s most inviting cafe is a crowd favorite any time of day. There’s a juice bar and paninis for lunch, double espresso to pick you up in the afternoon before another fun-filled evening of food and drink, and sweet gelato to end an evening after dinner and a stroll. Try the chocolate, stracciatella, hazelnut, the passion fruit and mint sorbet, or anything for that matter. There are other gelato places nearby, all mediocre, Campanella rules!

Sabor de Mar

Calle Jupiter Manzana 5, Lote 17 Local 4 centro, Tulum Centro, 77760 Tulum Q.R., Mexico 984 203 5644 Visit Website For a taste of Mexican seafood in Tulum you can count on this Sinaloa-style mariscos restaurant downtown. The menu includes aguachiles, tostadas mixtas covered in fresh fish and seafood, and the latest trend in Sinaloa (and LA): several kinds of torres de mariscos (Mexican seafood towers). The towers come decoratively stacked with layers of avocado fans, diced vegetables, and seafood drowned in rich sauces and lime juice. A must for $12 U.S.!

Encanto Cantina

Av. Tulum 21, Tulum Centro, 77780 Tulum Q.R., Mexico 984 157 9218 Visit Website Definitely the most disappointing of my meals.

The Healing

breath movement class and I was really in my head with the hot guy sitting behind me with his shirt off staring at my belly fat. He had gorgeous blue eyes and I was so self conscious. By the end of the class I had loosened up and felt the spirits taking over.